from the

Lewis and Clark trail

Ken Burns

"I've spent three years retracing every step of Lewis and Clark's journey, from St. Louis to Astoria, Oregon, for a documentary about the explorers. In Monowi, the smallest town in Nebraska, Lewis and Clark with their expedition of four dozen spent the better part of a day capturing a prairie dog. They sent the animal live to the White House. My partner Dayton Duncan and I found Missouri River vistas untouched by telephone wires. As we filmed in withering heat, chiggers feasted on us. Then, at the Monowi Tavern, we feasted-- on one of the best steak dinners imaginable. The whole town, population six, was there. We felt we had discovered the backbone of the country, and I don't mean that just in terms of geography."

Lewis & Clark: "The Journey of the Corps of Discovery" airs November 4 and 5, 1997, on PBS.

Meal plan: Beef for lunch, beef for dinner, or drive 70 miles to find a salad bar.

In my pack: Backup socks, baseball mitt, a 15-star flag just like Lewis and Clark's.

Chigger Rx: Apply nail polish remover to skin; poisons them fast. Road rule: Never retrace your route.

Reprinted with permission from Travel & Leisure, July, 1997. © 1997 American Express Publishing Corporation. All rights reserved.